Speaking of surfing that isn’t quite for everyone: “I really like Teahupo’o,” she says, of the famous surf break that just hosted the Olympics. “Whenever I go to Teahupo’o, I surf in the morning, and then go on a boat to the wild side.” That wild side, which describes the stretch of southeastern coastline from Teahupo’o to Tautira, can only be accessed by boat; it’s the section of Tahiti not reached by the coastal road the circles the rest of the island. Luckily, boat tours offered by locals—including Cindy Drollet (who is the only woman boat guide in the area), are easy to come by. “Teahupo’o has this energy that is really special, and when you go further, it’s even stronger, and you almost don’t feel like you’re in Tahiti, on the main island, anymore.”
Post-surfing bites
Teiefitu goes where the surf is—which then dictates where she grabs a meal afterward. If the morning surf sesh is near her house, then breakfast or lunch is always at Mama’s Beach House on Point Venus. “It’s like a food truck, but better,” she says. They have great fish dishes, like poisson cru (raw tuna marinated in coconut milk), local veggies, and grilled meat, right near a family-friendly beach with a historic lighthouse. If the surf looks best on the south side of the island, she’ll pop by Poke Bar in Puna’auia. “They do great pokes, açai bowls, and brunch items like avocado toast and smoothies. You’re literally sitting in front of the ocean while you eat.” If you follow the address to Poke Bar and find yourself at a roundabout, you’re in the right spot—like so many of Tahiti’s eateries, it belongs to a collection of food trucks (the neighboring crêperie is a good alternative if you want a break from seafood, she says).
If surf spots aren’t part of the equation, then expect Teiefitu to beeline to Le Manoa for lunch or dinner. “That’s actually the best restaurant ever to me,” she says. “They do really good cuisine, mostly local but a little bit French. I order the shrimp with coconut milk, and the Manoa fish burger.” They also make huge plates with quintessential Tahitian fish dishes like sashimi, poisson cru, and carpaccio.
Inland adventures
In the afternoon, or on days when the waves aren’t worth paddling out for, Teiefitu usually looks inward—to the center of the island, that is. “Sometimes we go surf in the morning, and then we go to the Maroto Valley,” she says. “If it’s just for half a day, then we go and find a spot to dip in the river. But if we have a full day, we do the whole valley.” Picture lush greenery, waterfalls, and serious “Jurassic Park” vibes. The local approach is to drive in, maybe grab a bite at the restaurant at the peak of the valley or find a spot to do a barbecue, then work your way back down. Visitors, though, should hire a guide with a 4×4 car who can help you navigate the off-the-grid area and find various waterfalls and cultural sites hidden within.
More sun and sand
Teiefitu isn’t a lay-on-the-beach kind of woman, but she’s quick to admit—Tahiti has some gorgeous stretches of sand. “You have the black sand beaches on the north side, and if you’re staying on the south, there are white sand beaches, like PK 18,” she says. Thanks to the barrier reef protecting much of the southern coastline, paddle boarding and diving are best off that side, with still waters that are crystal clear thanks to the white sand bottom. Then again, the windier north end is perfect for foiling and kite surfing: “There’s a good spot for kite surfing called Motu Martin, where the wind speeds up between the coast and a little island right off of it,” she says. And if it’s whale season, in September or October? Make sure to carve out time to swim with the migrating humpbacks—the best spot is on neighboring island Mo’orea, which is a quick 30 to 60-minute ferry ride from Pape’ete.
After sunset
If it’s a Saturday night, you might find Teiefitu and her friends starting the evening at a bar—always with an ocean-view, and an arrival expertly timed to sunset. “The best place to watch sunset is the bar at the Te Moana Tahiti resort,” she says. “The bar is on a little island and you can see Mo’orea right in front. It’s so pretty.” The night starts with a drink there, then maybe dinner at Yellowfin or the Moby Dick crêperie. But really, any cluster of food trucks is guaranteed to deliver.
When it’s a low-key night—say, dinner with her whole family—Dahlia for Chinese-Tahitian food is the spot. “We order the roasted duck, the chow mein, the lemon-fried chicken, rice cooked with vegetables, beef with broccoli, salted shrimp—so many good things. You can never go wrong.”
Further afield
Beyond Tahiti, and neighboring Mo’orea, Teiefitu has one clear favorite when it comes to the rest of French Polynesia’s 118 islands: the Marquesas. “They’re out of this world—take the energy of Teahupo’o and multiply it by 100. It’s so raw there. It’s like Tahiti maybe 50 years ago, maybe more.” There’s majestic nature, fruit everywhere, just pure “abundance,” she says.
An abbreviated version of this article appeared in the December 2024 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.
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